Day 11-12 — Island Peak Summit (6,189m) & Return to Chhukung
Ups ↑ 990 m
Down ↓ 1460 m
Elevation 6189 m
Distance ⟺ 10-12 km
Summit Night: From Base Camp to High Altitude
The summit push begins late at night, usually around 12:00–1:00 AM. After an early dinner at Island Peak Base Camp, you gear up—crampons, harness, helmet, headlamp, ice axe—everything checked one final time by the climbing guide. The cold is intense, the sky is full of stars, and silence surrounds the camp as you step onto the glacier.
The first section climbs gradually over rocky and icy terrain, following a narrow path marked by headlamps ahead. As you gain height, the slope steepens and the ground turns fully icy. Breathing becomes slow and controlled; every step is deliberate. After several hours, you reach the glacier section, where ropes are fixed and climbers move one by one, clipped in for safety.
The final part of the climb is the most technical and demanding—a steep snow and ice headwall (45–55°) leading to the summit ridge. Using jumars, fixed ropes, crampons, and ice axes, you climb steadily upward. The cold bites hard, but adrenaline and determination take over. As dawn approaches, the sky slowly turns deep blue, then orange.
Summit Moment: Island Peak (6,189m / 20,305ft)
Reaching the summit of Island Peak is an emotional moment. Standing at 6,189 meters, you’re surrounded by giants—Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and the vast Himalayan horizon stretching endlessly in every direction. Prayer flags flutter in the icy wind, and the feeling of achievement is overwhelming. This is a true Himalayan summit—earned step by step.
After photos, quiet reflection, and congratulations, the descent begins quickly. Weather can change fast, so time on the summit is kept short.
Descent: Back to Base Camp & Chhukung
Descending the same route requires focus and energy. You carefully down-climb the steep headwall using fixed ropes, then continue across the glacier as the sun rises fully. By late morning, you return safely to Island Peak Base Camp, where hot drinks and rest feel incredibly rewarding.
After a break and packing up, the journey continues downhill back to Chhukung. The walk feels long but lighter—oxygen is richer, and the hardest part is behind you. Arriving in Chhukung in the afternoon, exhaustion mixes with pure satisfaction. A warm meal, rest, and celebration mark the successful completion of the Island Peak Climb.